In the Fashion Icons of Old, Inspiration for Today’s Women

(JG Photos/Afriadi Hikmal)
It might seem like a paradox. Even though overall today’s Indonesian women are better-educated and more career-oriented, many continue to harbor feelings of fear and insecurity. 


“There are still many women who want to look like a certain celebrity or a supermodel,” Indonesian fashion designer Sebastian Gunawan said before his fashion show at Hotel Mulia, in Senayan, Jakarta, on Oct. 25. “They’re not confident just being themselves.” 


The theme of Sebastian’s 2011 collection was Femme Fatale, after the charms and beauty of fashion icons of the 1940s, ’50s and ’60s. 


“Take Lauren Bacall or Marilyn Monroe, for example,” he said. “They were not wearing something that was controversial or over the top, but they exuded their charms by the way they carried themselves in the world.” 

The fashion show featured 92 evening dresses bearing Sebastian’s signature feminine and elegant look. He intentionally incorporated a wide array of cuts, fabrics and finishing details into the collection.

“I don’t want to dictate [fashion] to my customers,” he said. “I’ll let them decide whatever suits their personality and look.” 

The fashion show took place on a rectangular black runway, where the models strutted to a repertoire of classic songs from the ’40s, ’50s and ’60s. 

The lack of lavish decorations or choreography only emphasized what the show was truly about: “The dress is the star,” Sebastian said, with a smile. 

The fashion show kicked off with a graceful Corinthian-style blush-toned evening gown. 

Embellished with a gold-tinted belt and crystals on its sharp-cornered shoulder pads, the dress was both unique and elegant. 

In fact, shoulder pads featured in many of the collection’s pieces, with most dresses sporting sharp, angular pads. 

“It’s like in the 1940s,” Sebastian said. “At that time, women wanted to look strong and powerful, like men.” 

High shoulders add an aura of power and authority to a dress, and have a slimming effect. And for some women, like Posh Spice and Rihanna, high shoulders accentuate a petite figure and a strong personality. 

“Victoria Beckham is definitely today’s fashion icon,” Sebastian said. “She has a strong personality and looks good in everything she wears.” 

However, high shoulders may not suit everyone. For women who are not blessed with slim figures, high shoulders might create a formidably domineering look.

Many of Sebastian’s gowns showcased during the show were decorated with beads and crystals. 

A particularly chic and elegant long dress had cascading silvery tassels and glittering crystal appliques. 

From the creamy-hued dresses, the show took on a bolder turn by featuring Ferrari-red dresses. 

An off-the-shoulder red mini dress was especially enchanting with soft ruches flowing from the shoulders and the waste. 

Swarovski crystals around the waist completed the look. 

Short dresses featured strongly on the catwalk. 

A sleeveless dress with silver beads on the bodice and pleated black skirt that flared from the waist was particularly stylish and sophisticated. 

Another short dress, also with a tight bodice and flared skirt, layered lavish black damask on top of creamy-hued satin. 

The result was an arresting fashion gem. 

Satin dresses in cadmium green also colored the catwalk. 

A long gown with stately empire cut embellished with crystals and long flowing sleeves extending from its wide shoulders recalled the irresistible charms of the Swedish actress Greta Garbo in the ’40s. 

“The style is 1940s, but I’ve twisted it into something more chic and modern,” Sebastian said. 

The audience broke into applause when a model wearing an immaculate white tube dress appeared on stage. 

The chiffon bodice of the dress was ruched and ruffled to resemble the blossoming petals of a tulip. 

The long skirt, made of sheer white brocade, flowed gracefully as the model made her way down the catwalk. 

But the highlight of the evening was a simple satin black dress with an A-line silhouette. 

The bottom of the dress was embellished with silver and golden sequins in elaborate circular patterns. 

“Femme Fatale is born out of your own style and personality,” Sebastian said. “Fashion only augments the strong qualities that you already have. So just be yourself.”


Sebastian Gunawan Workshop 
Harmoni Plaza Blok K No.1 
Jl. Suryopranoto 2 
Central Jakarta 
Tel: 021 632 8470


Sylviana Hamdani | November 07, 2010